Finale

(Aug 21)

Following our tour at Cape Cost Castle it was back to the Anomabo Beach Resort for lunch and then another long bus ride to Accra. At this point many of us were trying to come to terms with the reality that our time in Ghana was almost through. People were busy calculating how many cedis they had left to spend on food and souvenirs. As we traveled to Accra, we started reminiscing about our favorite portions of the trip and commiserating about how much we missed our teachers and the people in Kopeyia.

            It was interesting being once again at the Afia Hotel in Accra. When we arrived there at the beginning of the trip we all were strangers, yet now we had become in a sense a family, a group of people from many different walks of life united by this life-changing experience. Our journey had reached its end. Some of us had different flight arrangements so goodbyes were scattered and even frustratingly hasty at times. Many of us held onto the promises of keeping in touch after our return… already photos are flying up on facebook!

Ten hours on the plane gave us time to reflect and discuss how we could share this experience with the Derby community… hopefully give back to the Kopeyia community in the future. We hope this blog has given its readers a sense of the wealth and depth of our learning we have encountered on ThisWorldMusic’s Ghana study abroad program.

We must extend heartfelt thanks to all who made this one of the most memorable and fruitful of adventures in both of our lives. We would again like to thank Derby Academy for subsidizing the trip and making our participation possible. The experience certainly would not have been as fun and meaningful without the camaraderie of our colleagues with whom we studied and forged strong friendships. Thank you to our talented and patient instructors at the Dagbe Cultural Center. Last but not least, we would like thank Jeremy and Kristen for their superb leadership on this trip. For all of us, traveling to Ghana was a process of discovery. It meant coming together to learn, share, find inspiration and form new friendships through our love of art. Thank you, readers, for sharing in this experience with us.

Sincerely,

Laura and Mark

Coda

Coda

(Aug 16-17)

After sadly leaving Kopeyeia, we soon found ourselves on the Western edge of Ghana, viewing it once again as tourists. On Wednesday, we enjoyed touring the Kakum Rain Forest, where for the first time during our stay in Ghana, it actually rained.

The highlight of the tour was the Canopy Walk, a series of suspended rope bridges ranging from 30 to 120 feet above the forest floor, which fell further from our feet with each successive bridge.  My "healthy" fear of heights was put to the test, especially as I had just learned that the forest is home to scorpions and a number of species of snakes.  Walking along 4x6 planks just seemed like a more appropriate activity for the likes of Gabby Douglas. Backflips were out of the question.  Yet, with the support of the group, I soon discovered that I had a knack for executing the time tested "white knuckle" technique.  

Laura here! Following the canopy tour we had lunch at a restaurant/hotel/music venue where many of us paid two cedis to pet one of their friendly crocodiles... I was more interested in my coke and fried rice, but it was fun to see others be adventurous. 

Then it was back on the bus... I must say, we've done our fair share of bus riding in the later portion of our trip. Luckily our group gets along very well. Some of our favorite bus activities included: sharing iPods, telling stories, and "the milk song." This helped the time pass and we were back at the Anamabo Resort and ready for some beach time. None of us ventured a swim, but I certainly got my  more than toes wet. :-) This was such a treat and a time to unwind from our weeks of intense studies.

Yesterday we made our last sight-seeing tour at the Cape Cost Castle.  This fortress was established by the British and played a major role in the slave trade. It was surreal being there and I found it difficult to truly take in all the atrocities that took place at Cape Cost. If prisoners resisted or tried to fight they were labeled as "stubborn slaves" and put into a cell where they would slowly die of starvation or affixation... there were still gashes in the walls from the struggles of the prisoners as they lashed out on the cells walls in anguish. Each place told story of the darkness humanity is capable. Our guide eloquently emphasized the importance of learning from the past, of forgiveness and healing, and of each individual's responsibility to make a difference.

Recapitulation

(Aug 15)

Over the last two weeks our lives were intertwined with the lives of the local villagers in Kopeyia. Despite obvious differences, we came to know more intimately about the lives of our instructors and those who took care of our daily needs -- as well as lives of their children.

Our mutual love of the languages of both music and dance has given us the opportunity to better appreciate the richness of the lives of our hosts. We were the students, and they, the teachers. The people of Kopeyeia have so much to offer us, and it seems we have comparatively little to give in return, both musically and culturally. Their ability to live without many of the things we consider neccessary highlights the beautiful sense of joy that only close-knit family and strong community structure can provide.  We will soon return enriched and humbled by the experience, and we all talk about how jarring it will be to return to a culture often defined by its excesses and emphasis on individualism.

Just as Ewe music is not complete without its dance component, interdependence is a way of life in the Volta and other regions of Africa. Even the drums are named after different members of the family.  Many of us are bringing home a small piece of the community and life-style of Dagbe in the form of a drum -- either a sogo or a djembe. Surely the sounds we make on these instruments will resonate with more than just the music.

Mark with the lead instructor, Odartey Kwashi.

-Mark

Performance

(Aug 13)

While Laura was focusing on dance, I elected to take private drumming lessons.  Between people taking private or group lessons, or practicing for the upcoming concert, the place was constantly buzzing.  The group had Gahu down pat, but the dance component of the second piece, Agbekor, was still shaky.  The final program  consisted of dancing and singing both pieces separately.  While we danced the staff musicians accompanied us.  We performed in costume with accessories and even war paint.

Laura wowed us all by dancing in two of the three additional performance pieces, Tokoe and Bawa.  The concert concluded with a number of dances performance by our instructors.

Members of the community and even passers by stopped to enjoy the performance, which was followed by a party and a feast.  Previously, many members of the group had pitched in and purchased a goat that had been slaughtered that morning (we were all invited to watch the process if we wanted -- Laura and I passed).

(Aug 13)

Laura here! Our last days in Kopeyia were filled with a flurry of activity for me. I was in the zone: going to private lessons, practicing, enjoying friendships, taking in every ounce of Dagbe possible.  

As the end of our studies approached I felt the weight of good-bye press upon me. It was time to bid farewell to our teachers, who were now our friends, to the children, who clearly were attached to us, and to the place that started to feel like home. I also had to come to terms with the fact that I would no longer have the opportunity to immerse myself in an art form that I have come to love. 

With yesterday's performance and our good-byes this morning I've been plucked out of my zone. Walking through the end of anything great is a difficult path to navigate... confusing bittersweetness. The sweetness is in my gratitude for my time at the Dagbe Cultural Center; for all I've learn and for the friendships I made; while the bitterness is a natural part of good-bye. I'm trying to keep myself open to the rest of the trip... to not be stuck missing Dagbe. I'll try to remember the Ghanian idea of Sankofa... lovingly remembering the past while looking to the future in hope.

-Laura and Mark

Monkey Mountain!

(Aug 12)

Well, the sanctuary wasn't actually on a mountain, but it was surrounded by them. The roads to it cut through mountains adorned with lush tropical wilderness -- the landscape inspired those in our van to start singing the Jurassic Park theme song. By the time we arrived, the name "Monkey Mountain" had already been set in stone. Our trip leader, Jeremy, surprised us with this special excursion, and it wasn't just a hit, it was a home run!

The Tafi Atome Monkey Sanctuary is located about two and a half hours north of our Kopeyia home.  Half of its proceeds go directly to serving the local village community.  There are about 400 monkeys that live in this densely forested area.  They live in groups that occupy different territories, and I must say, the ones that live by the trails eat the best.  Almost as soon as we entered the forest, hungry monkeys scampered all around and in the trees above us.  Our guide instructed us how to hold a banana in a way that would entice the monkeys to jump on our arms.  Cute little monkeys!  Eating out of our hands?  What a photo op!

We were very fortunate with our interactions with the monkeys. Those who wanted to feed a monkey were able to, and many of us coaxed them onto our arms as well.

Everyone in our group was absolutely giddy and thrilled with the experience. Just another marvelous day monkeying around in Ghana! Thanks Jeremy!

-Mark

Discovering Dance

(Aug 11)

Laura here, via Mark's iPad app :-) My body is exhausted! I had to tape up a major blister on my big toe, and I've discovered muscles in my legs and back that I didn't even know existed.  But what a small price to pay; I've discovered a love of dance on this trip!

Before ThisWorldMusic's Ghana study abroad program, most of my dancing occurred in my music classroom in the form of song games, or in my living room playing Dance Central for Kinect.  (Now) I'm dancing up to four hours a day. My body has simply fallen in love with African dance...Our two hour morning dance class is just not enough. If I haven't taken an additional private lesson that afternoon, I crave the movement that night. Coming into this trip I thought I would enjoy drumming the most. Don't misunderstand... I enjoy the drumming, but it's the dancing that has sparked expression in me I didn't know was there.

Even though I'm new to dancing, on this trip that doesn't matter. We are dance on an even playing field and it is easy to find kindred spirits who will venture into this new medium with me. On Monday I will perform four dances: two with the large group class (with Mark) and two small ensemble pieces that I have been working on in private lessons. I'm so thankful for my teachers here at the Dagbe Cultural Center, George and Mensah. I'm also thankful for my dancing colleagues on this trip, without whom I would have never had the courage to so enthusiastically throw myself into something so new to me.

When I get home, I do not know what I will do with this new passion, but one thing I know for sure... I'll have to keep moving!

Cheers,

Laura

The Little Ones

(Aug 9)

Laura here! Apart from my studies at the Dagbe Cultural Center, my favorite thing about Kopeyia is the children. Several of the children now know my name, and beckon me with sweet voices and playful waves. From our arrival to the present, these little ones have been a constant source of smiles and joy. 

Earlier this week Mensah gathered some village children for a simulated classroom demonstration at the school. He showed a sample lesson in which they worked on the alphabet and did some classroom songs... it was adorable! They also taught us some of their favorite singing games. I can't wait to do "Holo Holo" with my kids at school.

Yesterday was a long day and as Mark said in his last post. We're now starting to really feel the intensity of the program. I even felt a little light-headed in dance class. Trying to preserve my energy, I decided to reschedule a private lesson, and when the group headed to the "Empty Cup" that evening I stayed back. I was practicing my dances by the front gate of the center... it's one of the few places slightly removed from the thunder of people practicing their drumming. 

While I was taking a water break, two children peeped through the gate and sheepishly approached me. I said hello and started learning their names. Then more children started shyly filtering into the center to join us.  After we finished introductions we all stood there looking at each other smiling awkwardly. Then I got an idea... I asked them if they wanted to dance "Tokoe" with me, and their faces lit up with an enthusiastic yes! We established where the stage was and I stood as the lead female dancer. One of the boys took charge of organizing the children behind me, and we were off singing the drum parts and doing the dance. I felt like the Pied Piper... it was a special moment. Midway through the dance, Valerie came with her computer. Once we had finished the children were naturally drawn to her mezmorizing Mac. They especially enjoyed seeing pictures of her daughter and a banana slug. My time with the kids that night was a perfect ending to a taxing day. 

Now for the weather/star report from Mark:

Even though it is still generally overcast, recently each night the clouds tease me by opening to reveal a different part of the sky.  Light pollution is very low and a good many stars can be found floating close to the horizon.  A few nights ago, Saturn, Mars, and Spica (a star in the constellation Virgo), converged to form a perfect equilateral triangle high in the sky.  We've also enjoyed the occasional streaking meteor, which I suspect are playing their part in the perennial dance of the Perseids.  A few members of our class, and even the staff have taken (or feigned) some interest in my obsession, and (perhaps out of pity) have even let me lead a few sky tours.

Thanks for reading,

Laura & Mark

Everything's Gonna Be All "Right"

(Aug 7)

The intensity of our training at the Dagbe Center hasn't wained as we find ourselves ensconced in the second week of our learning.  If anything, it has intensified.  The instructors work us hard in morning dance class, but we know it's gonna be alright when we see one of the staff with a machete and a pile of coconuts. :-)

Next Monday we will perform for the community.  We just started working out the detail of our performance. There are a number in our group who have taken on the task of learning the master drum part for one of the pieces, Gahu, and so the plan is have them rotate through the variations of master drummer's part. The rest of us are still determining our roles with the help of our instructors.

I can't speak for others, but I am apprehensive about performing.  The pieces have either an extended form, or proper execution of the form of the piece involves paying careful and vigilant attention to the master drummer, who shapes the piece according to his or her inclination.  In rehearsals, mistakes are commonplace, Almost no one in our group can play or dance a piece from start to finish without making at least a few mistakes.  Yet, we are proceeding on the assumption that everything will be alright. 

As you can guess, there is a social piece of the course's curriculum.  Most of us have never been able to observe and interact at such close quarters with a culture as divergent from our own.  Adults in Kopeyia casually treat us as if we are part of the community, and we are comfortably at home when we are in the village. In the evening, we often walk through the village to a hut that we have foundly come to call "The Empty Cup" where we can relax among the locals.  The other night, our "academically motivated" interest was peaked when we observed one of the surprisingly flavorful local favorites being decanted from a gas can! I am hoping to bring back a bottle; more research is needed in this area. Indeed, everything will be alright.

There are a number of local and regional customs that we were made aware of at the outset of our travels in Ghana.  Lack of attention to some of them can result in an awkward moment.  Luckily, because we can be quite easily identified as tourists so people cut us lot of slack.  Nonetheless, we try to be ever-vigilant and respect local customs.  One that is particularly difficult for me to comply with is the practice of using only the right hand for any transaction or personal interaction -- even waving.  Everything's gotta be ALL RIGHT.  The left hand is considered to be "dirty."  Unfortunately, I was afflicted with a case of terminal left-handedness as a small child -- yet I somehow learned to use scissors and write without smudging -- so I have been determined to meet this challenge. I have even developed a few tricks, like holding things in my left hand to prevent those dirty little outbursts, but the occasional faux pax still breaks through.  Fortunately, Jeremy has instructed me in the delicate art of how to appropriately apologize for the inadvertent transgression. Yes, even when I forget to use my right hand, even when we're struggling to learn our drum parts, and even when we get turned around in the dance, we know... EVERYTHING'S GONNA BE ALRIGHT!

-Mark

A New Dance

Aug 7

Today we began to learn a new performance piece, starting with the dance in the morning.  The Atsiagbekor commemorates the story of a village that prepared for, and then successfully defended themselves against attack from a well-known warrior tribe. Each part of the highly stylized dance represents an event in the story.

The Atsiagbekor dance style strongly contrasts with the Gahu, which we learned all last week. Gahu, which translates to "money drum," originated in Nigeria, and is, for lack of a better descriptive, party music. We were constantly reminded to smile while we danced it.  Of course, the Atsiagbekor has a much more serious theme, and the dancers must express its sentiment in all parts of their body. -- We even get to use props in this dance, and my favorite is the sword!

Laura here. In afternoon, we continued our studies of Atsiagbekor in drum class. I find the experience of learning new drum parts fascinating. All of our teachers verbalize the patterns "pah-ti, pah-pah, pah-ti, pah-ti, pah-ti, pah-pah." Later that day I was spending time with a few of the village children and I showed them a video from dance class this morning. They were singing along with the drum parts... it was very melodic (and cute.) 

Singing the parts in my head (inner hearing), is critical to my success in the ensemble. In any Ewe piece there many rhythms happening simultaneously.  When I first started learning, the wash of contrasting rhythms overwhelmed me. I frequently crossed the parts in my head and struggled to hold onto my assigned rhythm.  Now, after a week of immersion in the music, I am able to pick up my part more easily. I'm also becoming more adept at opening my ears and hearing a part in the context of the other rhythms... this phenomenon is a remarkable experience that is difficult to put into words. Even more amazing... I find myself now able to "sing" more than one contrasting rhythm in my head while playing another.  This is something I've been doing with harmony for years.  I'm experiencing rhythm like I never have before... Mark and I often share discoveries like these as we explore this multi-faceted and extraordinarily rich medium of expression.  We are already excited about seeing these realizations bear fruit in our classrooms.

Thanks for reading,

-Mark and Laura

Song & Praise

(Aug 5)

This morning we gathered under the summer hut to meet Mensah, during who took a group of us to his church.  He prepared us for what to expect in the service, and after a very short walk we were there.

The church is a partially built structure... four half-built brick walls, a dirt floor, a tin roof supported by temporary wood planks, a modest altar covered with lace cloth, and two columns of wooden benches for pews. The women and men sat on separate sides. Despite its very modest appearance the people made it a warm and welcoming place.

Before every service, there is Sunday school. Mensah translated during the lesson, which was about how Christians should live lives full of love for others. As the Sunday school lesson closed, people began to slowly fill the church.  The bold patterns and bright colors of traditional Ghanian dress transformed the shell of this church into a vibrant place of worship. Women wore beautifully tailored dresses and lovely scraves, while the men wore dress shirts featuring similar patterns. 

Most of the two hour service was filled with music. An improvised version of Western hymn tradition, blended seamlessly with elements Ewe rhythm and dance. During one song, many of the women came up and danced Agbadza. Once they returned to their places in the pews, a number of men, including two brave souls from our group, took their turn dancing. There were drums, and many of the women, even a few of the cute little girls, had tambourines.  The worship was filled with joy.

Naturally, there were several times of prayer; however, only one period of silent personal prayer. Frequently the congregation would follow a song with a time of prayer in which everyone prayed out loud at once... It was a lot to take in given my lack of exposure to Pentecostal traditions. In the middle of the worship we were invited up front where we presented an offering we had collected as a group. Mark and I lead our group in "When the Saints Go Marching In," which the congregation loved.

The sermon was on a parable from the book of Mark, chapter four. They read the scripture in both Ewe and English. One of the elders translated the sermon for us... clearly we were honored guests.  At the end of the service we were invited up to the front again and the entire congregation prayed for us during another time of communal prayer out loud... it was quite humbling. We were encouraged by the pastor to continue to think of this community as we return to the states. Worshiping in this humble setting challenged me to reflect on how fortunate most American congregations are; however, it isn't the building that makes a church...  it is the community and in this regard this congregation is indeed rich.

Thanks for reading,

 Laura

A Celebration of Life

(Aug 4)

Today we were fortunate enough to be invited to a funeral in Dzogbedzi, one of the the villages adjacent to Kopeyia.   Yes, I (Mark) know it sounds like an odd thing to say 'fortunate,' but a funeral in Ghana more resembles a wedding in the U.S.  It is truly a celebration of life, and the opportunity to go to one should not be passed up. 

This particular event lasted for almost two days, and the music was non-stop.  We heard drumming from the distance the entire night prior to our visit.  The music ranged from traditional Ewe (the regional name of the people, as well as the name of the music we are learning), to a more techno-African style of music.

To hold a proper funeral ceremony, it is common practice for a village to spend a large amount of community funds to rent things like a portable sound system and tents, and so it has become a custom that anyone who is not a member of the village is welcome to participate... after making a donation. 

We were fitted in appropriate garb and walked no more than 5 minutes to the next village.

Picture: The front entrance to our "dormatory."

As we arrived, there were hundreds of people were dancing.  The two bands that were simutaneously playing could not have been much more 50 yards apart, yet there's something about Ewe music that allows for this to not be a problem.  It may be because of the density of the rhythms, or perhaps it's the volume of the axhatche or the wooden clapping instruments that many of the women played, but I can assure you that as a dancer, it is only possible to focus on one band at a time.

We were forewarned that people would ask us to dance, and so our dance instructors taught us how to dance the Agbadza, a very necessary skill to have at a funeral or any Ghanaian social gathering.  At first sight, the dance seems simple and repetative, but it's a good thing we had been working on a number of elements of Ewe dance since we arrived in Kopeyia; executing the subtleties of the Agbadza elegantly and musically does not come easily. Our preparations paid off; it seems anything we do to demonstrate our interest and appreciation of Ghanaian culture is well received.

As we began to mingle with the crowd, I tried to position myself in an area that seemed good for observing (and safe from dancing), but to no avail.  A number of women approached me with the proscribed opening pre-dance moves -- so much for my strategy of avoidance. At one point, upon seeing that I knew the Agbadza (or could at least move in a way that resembled the dance), another woman coaxed her daughter who could not have been of more that 8 years to walk over and initiate a dance with me.

Photo by Robby Bowen

We stayed for almost two hours and everyone in our group danced. Once again, I found myself lost in the swirl of colors, smells and rhythms.  A picture -- or even a video could never do justice in describing its kaleidoscopic effect on the senses, nor the overall gestalt of the experience.

Weather Report: Since our arrival in Ghana the weather has been mostly overcast with a light breeze.  The Sun is always struggling to cut through the clouds.  Low and high daily temperatures seem to consistently fall between 75 and 80.  In short, the weather has been absolutely perfect considering the demands of our schedule and my ever-sensitive hairless head.

Last night, the sky became mostly clear for the first time.  The constellation Scorpius was much higher in the sky than I've ever seen, and I was able to enjoy the patch of sky named Aquarius in its entirety for the first time ever.

Tomorrow, we begin a full week of scheduled classes.  Must get sleep. Must get ... mmm...  zzzzzz..

-Mark

Weaving Through the Marketplace.

(Aug, 3)

In the afternoon today most of us took a trip to the marketplace.  We were advised to only take pictures with consent, so it's difficult if not impossible to take a photo of a larger section of the market... but I did mange to sneak in this shot.

 

The entire marketplace takes up what feels like 5 or 6 acres of tightly knit stalls along dirt paths that barely permit two people moving in opposite directions to pass one another.  Not a square foot is wasted.  Some venders have stalls, but others who only have a few smaller items or produce to sell have carefully embedded themselves in nooks along the paths.  It is hard to imagine what it would be like if there were more people.  If not for the fact that all of the women porters carry commodities on their heads, things would surely come to a standstill.

The place is a sea of constantly changing colors, sounds, and smells.  Most all of the women wear brightly colored batik fabric or dresses with large bold prints.  A solid colored dress is a rare sight.  The main dirt road that defines one of the boundaries of the marketplace is lined with stalls as well.  This road is packed with cars and people.. almost as densely as the paths between the stalls in the market place.  Right of way is determined by an entertaining mix of convention and the occasional game of chicken. We were lucky to have George and Ahtu guiding us.

The marketplace swings into action every four days. It is definitely not designed as a tourist destination; it's more like a farmers market/Walmart for the local people.  There is a somewhat open area in the center of the market where fish mongers (all of whom are women) have set up shop.  Most all of the seafood is dried whole fish, and the smell is concentrated...

Laura here. It was smelly all right! I asked George and Ahtu if they liked the fish and they said they loved it... to each their own. While I enjoy shopping, this was shopping on steriods... major sensory overload. Luckily my group was on hand to help me stift through the pleaortha of options amongst the many fabric shops. Suprisingly, Mark found the golden ticket, a beautiful green fabric with a lovely print that will become a new dress. After the market, we went to the tailor in the Kopeyia. I drew a picture of the dress style I wanted for him and he took the necessary measurements. I'm so excited to get my tailor-made dress. :-) 

Thanks for reading!

Laura & Mark

It's a Groove Thing

(Aug 2)

The ante was raised in drumming class.  The instructors are letting us choose to review or move on to more complicated parts.  Laura and I elected to move on, and we are both struggling a bit to keep up with the pace of class, which is moving at a speed that is more appropriate for the 5 percussionists in our group, however the teachers help us hold our own. The music is dense, intense, and complex, and it is also starting to tax our technical abilities.

We are all encouraged to take private lessons.  The Dagbe Center is a very important part of the economy of the Kopeyia community, and so teaching there is a coveted job.   With the current Dollar to Cedis conversion rate, a one hour lesson runs around $8.50. 

Today, Laura, Valerie, a professor of Music Education at University of Laval in Quebec City, and I took a private drumming lesson where we started learning "Tokoe."

None of us are hot shots, and our instructor, Mensa, is very patient (he teaches kindergarten at the local school.) Needless to say, the class moved at a more friendly pace. Being a good teacher, Mensa also assigned us homework for next time we meet.

Though it is physically demanding, dance class is a blast.  I (Mark) feel like I can move properly, but transitions are very hard to hear because the musical cues, sent at the whim of the master drummer, are often subtly embedded in a swirl of the music. With West African music, the "beat" is put in the dancers' feet. The contrasting "rhythms" are played by the musicians on various instruments.  These rhythms all seem to originate at unusual (and hard to get to) places. 

Before dinner a group of the girls visited the local tailor. Tomorrow we're going to go to the market tomorrow to buy fabric. I (Laura) plan on having a dress made. The tailor's shop is a circular hut made of cement with a thatch roof. He uses a coal iron and a beautiful old-fashion sewing machine.

Later in the day, Paul, one of our teachers whose uncle is the tailor, took us on a walk through the village. We were a small group, so it was a more intimate look into village life. Paul showed us his place and we ran into several of our teachers at their homes. We observed village life, boiling an egg for lunch over a small fire, a new born baby goat taking his first steps, kids cooking, women pulling water from a well. It was wonderful!

This evening I continued my private dance lessons. I was working with George, who is a very talented musician and dancer...  and goodness, he can play the master drum LOUD! Now that private lessons are started it can be challenging to find a place that is removed from all the music other people are playing. George, two other dancers, and myself found a quieter place at the front of the center. A solitary lightbulb added to the pale moonlight that kept trying to peak through the floating clouds..  it was a very "I'm in Ghana moment." We're both so thankful to be here. Thanks Derby Academy and Jeremy for making this fabulous experience possible

It was wonderful to have a closer look at daily life.

Cheers,

Laura & Mark

Beat and Form

(Aug 1)

Today marks the first full day of our formal studies at Kopeyia.  With just a few exceptions, each day will scheduled similarly: breakfast at 8, dance class from 9-11, lunch at 12, free time after lunch (private lessons, exploring the village, rest, etc), drumming class from 4-6 followed by dinner.  Both dance and drum class are physically demanding, and Jeremy is constantly reminding us to hydrate. Since our arrival we have been encouraged to drink 3 to 5 liters of bottled water every day. Speaking of which.

There is no running water in Kopeyia; the center has a water capturing system that collects rain water for the showers and toilets.  Most water is  drawn and carried by hand from wells in the village. We try to "be kind" with how we use water. 

I (Laura) would describe the accommodations at Dagbe as a super deluxe camping... without camp fires or smores. So according Mark, this can't be camping without smores, but you get the idea.

During our free time after lunch and then again after dinner, we can take private lessons with the instructors.  In addition to dancing and drumming, we can study singing, weaving, cooking, tie-dying and batik making. Other than that, our time is our own, but there is course related reading to do, laundry to clean, and don't forget blogging.  Today I (Mark) took a "group" Djembe course.  There were five of us and they worked our hands to the bone.  One of the percussion majors in our class was playing so hard he split his hand open, quickly ran and got a bandage and wrapped it up, and was back playing within a few minutes.  Talk about dedication! 

This evening, I (Laura) joined up with two of the dancers on the trip for a private dance lesson. We worked on the "Tokoe," and I must say I didn't do too bad for a bassoonist. Many of the movements are foreign to my body and at times it's difficult to manage both the upper and lower body movements... but IT'S SO MUCH FUN! Following my lesson a group of us relaxed under the Summer Hut in the middle of the center. One of the village boys showed us some new rhythms. Someone got a guitar and we had an impromptu jam session... guitar, voice, gayngokwoi, sogo, kidi, and kagan! As I write this Mark is busy playing cards. Well, it's time for bed.

Thank You and Good Night!

Laura and Mark

Fanfare

(July 31st)

Yesterday morning, we left Accra took a private bus our journey to the Dagbe Cultural Center.  It was a smooth ride. The main highway from Accra (the capital of Ghana) to Togo (the country that borders Ghana on the east) passes right by Kopeyia. Between the traffic, speed bumps, bathroom breaks, and being stopped at one of the guarded speed checkpoints, what should have been a two hour ride took a full three hours.  Ghana is a former British colony, so I (Mark) was surprised that people drive on the right hand side of the road. 

Upon our arrival at the Dagbe Center, we were greeted with a jubilant welcome.   As soon as we turned off the highway into Dagbe we heard a fanfare of drumming. Smiling children waved and ran after the bus, stopping at the center's gate to watched as our bags were unloaded. It was clear that our leaders, Jeremy and Kristen, were reuniting with good friends and we were all enthusiastically greeted with hand shakes and hugs.

After the staffed helped us settle into our rooms and we had some rest, we went on a tour of the village. Along with the Dagbe staff, we had many precious little guides who walked us through three of the seven "branches" that make up the village. We were also formally welcomed by the elder at one of the villages. Some of the younger children from the village eagerly held our hands, while the older ones practiced their English throughout our tour. 

 As a Kodaly teacher (Laura), it warmed my heart when one of the girls sang our names in a minor third. "Ashley, Laura, Ashley, Laura" (sol-mi, s-m, s-m, s-m). During our walk some of the older girls also showed me the English songs they know... I think this will be a beautiful exchange!

After dinner, Jeremy (who is the instructor of the course) took a few of us who were interested to the bar, which after a phone call was quickly opened for us.  Beer and Fanta were the popular drinks that evening, and after just one round the ten of us had all but decimated its refrigerated stock.

We went to bed anxiously awaiting our first full day of instruction at the Dagbe Cultural Center

Two Concerts and a Game of Cards

Today was a BUSY day.  Yoga on the beach at 8:00AM followed by breakfast and a walk to the National Theater where we were treated to a private performance by the Ghana National Dance Company before they leave for Japan to kick off a ~2 month world tour.

The performance was stunning, powerful, beautiful and moving. Its colorful and energetic display of non-stop drumming, dancing, and singing had me (Mark) tearing up at times, and I wasn't the only one in our group fighting the tears.   

The experience was capped off with group dance workshop taught by the company's choreographer, where we were accompanied by an ensemble of company musicians.  What an incredible honor to learn from some of the premiere musicians and dancers of Ghana. 

Upon our return, Laura and a some of the group went shopping at "the arts center."  I stayed at the hotel to nurse the blister on my toe (all of our dancing in Ghana will be barefoot)... I don't recall what happened next because I slept through it.  

When I woke up it was time for another concert.  Yesterday while eating lunch we noticed a man with an instrument none of us in the group recognized. Come to find out, the gentleman was a performer, and after our fearless leader did a little negotiating, a private concert was arranged.  I'm sorry, I can't remember his name, but he played the n'goni.  It was kind of a cross between a bowl-shaped banjo with a harp like koto attached.

For the musicians following this blog, it was tuned to a pentatonic scale, so the music in general is very peaceful and sometimes even ethereal. See thisworldmusic's facebook page for a video. 

Well a game of "Spoons" is calling my name, but just a head's-up. 

 We're leaving Accra tomorrow so it may be a while before you see our next posts. -Mark

Laura signing in...After all the reading and research, after seeing how the drums are made, after hearing stories of the amazing music and dancing here in Ghana, we FINALLY saw art form for which we made our journey... words cannot bring justice to the joyous artistry of the Ghana National Dance Ensemble. 

During their performance I was gitty, trying to take it all in! I was torn between attempting to capture moments on film, analyze the music, memorize the use of instruments... by the end I simply sat and enjoyed... probably the approach I should have taken from the beginning.

The dance workshop was wonderful. Our teacher first broke down the movement and later said this, "Now you have the meat (the basic steps), but we need to cook it, to add the spice and flavor." I tried to "cook" my dancing, yet I have a long way to go. Luckily one of the female dancers noticed me struggling with a complicated step, came over, took my hand, and danced me through it. 

I didn't want the workshop to end, but alas, we had to leave for lunch and shopping... good thing we'll have two weeks of dance instruction at the Dagbe Cultural Center. 

Day Two at "the arts center" was fruitful. I bartered for a patch-work purse and a Ghana soccer jersey for the hubby. Charles Kofi and Kenya were great businessman and gave me a fair deal. All this was capped with a private concert and another tastey dinner... fruit and banana crepes this time!

We'll be in touch as much as we can, but know we'll be well cared for these next two weeks in Kopeiya!

Cheers,

Laura