Two Concerts and a Game of Cards

Today was a BUSY day.  Yoga on the beach at 8:00AM followed by breakfast and a walk to the National Theater where we were treated to a private performance by the Ghana National Dance Company before they leave for Japan to kick off a ~2 month world tour.

The performance was stunning, powerful, beautiful and moving. Its colorful and energetic display of non-stop drumming, dancing, and singing had me (Mark) tearing up at times, and I wasn't the only one in our group fighting the tears.   

The experience was capped off with group dance workshop taught by the company's choreographer, where we were accompanied by an ensemble of company musicians.  What an incredible honor to learn from some of the premiere musicians and dancers of Ghana. 

Upon our return, Laura and a some of the group went shopping at "the arts center."  I stayed at the hotel to nurse the blister on my toe (all of our dancing in Ghana will be barefoot)... I don't recall what happened next because I slept through it.  

When I woke up it was time for another concert.  Yesterday while eating lunch we noticed a man with an instrument none of us in the group recognized. Come to find out, the gentleman was a performer, and after our fearless leader did a little negotiating, a private concert was arranged.  I'm sorry, I can't remember his name, but he played the n'goni.  It was kind of a cross between a bowl-shaped banjo with a harp like koto attached.

For the musicians following this blog, it was tuned to a pentatonic scale, so the music in general is very peaceful and sometimes even ethereal. See thisworldmusic's facebook page for a video. 

Well a game of "Spoons" is calling my name, but just a head's-up. 

 We're leaving Accra tomorrow so it may be a while before you see our next posts. -Mark

Laura signing in...After all the reading and research, after seeing how the drums are made, after hearing stories of the amazing music and dancing here in Ghana, we FINALLY saw art form for which we made our journey... words cannot bring justice to the joyous artistry of the Ghana National Dance Ensemble. 

During their performance I was gitty, trying to take it all in! I was torn between attempting to capture moments on film, analyze the music, memorize the use of instruments... by the end I simply sat and enjoyed... probably the approach I should have taken from the beginning.

The dance workshop was wonderful. Our teacher first broke down the movement and later said this, "Now you have the meat (the basic steps), but we need to cook it, to add the spice and flavor." I tried to "cook" my dancing, yet I have a long way to go. Luckily one of the female dancers noticed me struggling with a complicated step, came over, took my hand, and danced me through it. 

I didn't want the workshop to end, but alas, we had to leave for lunch and shopping... good thing we'll have two weeks of dance instruction at the Dagbe Cultural Center. 

Day Two at "the arts center" was fruitful. I bartered for a patch-work purse and a Ghana soccer jersey for the hubby. Charles Kofi and Kenya were great businessman and gave me a fair deal. All this was capped with a private concert and another tastey dinner... fruit and banana crepes this time!

We'll be in touch as much as we can, but know we'll be well cared for these next two weeks in Kopeiya!

Cheers,

Laura

Overture

While on this journey each participant is allowed to purchase a drum built by one of Ghana's foremost drum makers.  This afternoon we went to David Amoo's workshop in Accra to pick up our instruments. Laura had pre-ordered a djembe, and I chose a sogo.

Before we received them, David gave us a detailed presentation on the drum making process.

He talked about the materials, and along with a master drum maker in his workshop, demonstrated the various drum making techniques on instruments in various phases of construction.  Needless to say, many pictures were taken.  We'll be leaving our drums in storage at the hotel for two weeks while we go to the Dagbe Cultural Center, where other drums will be provided for our studies.

We concluded this wonderful day with a delicious family style dinner. Both the food and the company was delightful. 

  -Mark

The Song Begins

*Sigh* Sleeping horizontal is a real treat after a long journey. I (Laura) had a leisurely morning day two in Ghana... reading in my room, breakfast in the Afia's open air restaurant, and yoga lead by one of the group participants... 

Kristen, the assistant trip director, took a group of us on a walking tour.  We went to "the arts center," which is an open market full of tourist-friendly souvenirs. Being Sunday, many of the stalls were closed, but still we had our fair share of eager salesmen approaching us. "Looking is free... come in please... look free!" Overall, I found the sellers less aggressive than in Turkey and India. We were just looking today, and will perhaps try our hand at bartering tomorrow. 

The walk continued a short distance to Accra's "Freedom Square." Being the capital, Accra is covered with splashes of patriotism, including displays of honor for Ghana's recently deceased president.

Next was another tasty meal at the Afia, and then it was off to David Amoo's drum workshop. More about that from Mark, but here is some powerful wisdom from one of David's colleagues, a wise and distinguished master teacher, pictured below second from the right.

"Drumming (in West Africa) is more than drumming... it is about life. You are born into a family. You do not choose that family, so you learn to live in it... and this teaches you tolerance. The drums are a part of the family. They represent the different voices, so you must listen... listen to each other... listen to yourself. Many of the world's problems would be solved if people learned to truly listen, as they must when drumming."

I hope to be able to truly listen both in my drumming and in my life.

Cheers!

Laura

Down Beat

Picking up where Laura left off..

After we settled into our rooms, most of us went straight to the beach.  At 81 degrees, it's not that hot in Accra, but it's pretty humid.  Luckily the ocean is pleasantly cool and there's a good breeze blowing in from the ocean.

Laura had my iPad out and was composing her blog on it, when a local boy who had been hanging around us all afternoon sat down beside her and asked what the device does

The boy, named Kofi, who collects and sells rubbish for a job, had never seen a computer before, much less a touch screen device.  It didn't take long before his curiosity took over.  Laura glanced at me for approval and within minutes Kofi was exploring apps and playing games.  All of us were amazed at how quickly he took to navigating and creating.  He discovered a drawing app, and was very precise in drawing the Ghanian flag.  He carefully outlined the flag and filled in the colors. Laura showed him how to draw the star in the center of the flag. I wish we had saved it!  At least Kofi had the satisfaction of displaying his work to the group, and as one of Derby Academy's "iPad gurus," this made my day!

-Mark

P. S. Thinking of my lovely wife Fran on our 28th Anniversary.

Upbeat

The flight went smoothly... Our group was scattered throughout the mid-section of the plane. Some of us slept, some watched movies. I (Laura) attempted to work on my reading, but got distracted by the in-flight meal, talking with the gentleman sitting next to me, watching"The Lorax" and sleep. Sleeping on a plane is never pleasant, but the flight seemed to pass quickly so I think I was successful.

Customs went by without a hitch... we were impressed by the Ghanian digital fingerpinting system. Everyone's luggage came in and we were off to the parking lot. As soon as we stepped out of the customs area there were several eager people asking if we needed a taxi, offering to carry our bags, etc.. Jeremy had to insist that we did not need any help from these very willing hands. It look some stratigizing to pack our group and our bags into two large vans... it was cozy.

(Picture by Mark)

I was impressed with the roads and traffic infracture... much much better than India. Accra is well developed. We went past many impressive government and business buildings on our way to the Afia Beach Hotel. We had tasty buffet lunch: plantains (three ways), fresh avocado, fish, chicken, beans, all prepared with many interesting flavors. After lunch we had free time on the beach... but I can see now why we won't be swimming in these rough waters. The group walked along the beach, visited with some locals, and enjoyed watching some talented ball handlers play football.

My first attempt at writing this entry was plesantly interupted by a very curious Ghanian boy. We had fun exploring Photo Both. More about that from Mark later.

We're safe, happy, and excited for more exploring tomorrow. 

Cheers!

Laura

Waiting In the Wings

The adventure has begun ..well, sort of.  I (Mark) am still on this side of the pond waiting out the interminable 7 hour layover at JFK that will precede the 11 hour flight to Accra.  Already twelve members of our group have gathered and we're from all over.... Kentucky, Connecticut, Idaho, Maryland, Illinois, NY and Massachusetts.

The excitement level becomes palpable as we introduce ourselves and begin to share our backgrounds.  We are mostly musicians, including a few percussionists, music teachers, a few dancers and one non-musician.  We're all in high spirits and ready to take off! -Mark

Step 1 Practice at Home

Layout of the Score

As the daughter of a military officer, the travel bug bit when I was just a youngster; so when Derby Academy announced the travel grant program I knew I had to apply. While attending a music educator’s workshop a few years ago, I heard about UMass Amherst Study Abroad Program in Ghana. Three weeks of drum and dance cultural field study in West Africa; it sounded like a perfect fit!

         Mark and I put together our applications for the travel grant, which were enthusiastically accepted… Did I mention, I adore working at Derby Academy! After more applications and phone interviews, we were enrolled in the Study Abroad Program and ready to prepare for our adventure to Africa.

Supporting Exercises

Once Mark and I knew we were going to Ghana, I couldn’t wait to share the news! Finally, after living on three continents and in seven states around the US, I am finally going to Africa. Naturally, my colleagues, students, friends and family have shared in my excitement, yet their enthusiasm is always followed by countless questions. What will the weather be like? What kind of food will you eat? How long does it take to fly there? What kind of music will you study? Will you be staying in a hut? So many questions, answers to which I had to figure out myself.

Luckily, Jeremy Cohen, the professor who heads the Ghana trips, has been doing it for years and put together a wonderful orientation to answer these questions… and no we will not be staying in mud huts. In addition to the orientation, I have assigned readings that acquaint me with the music and culture in which we are about to be immersed. I am almost through the first book, African Rhythm and African Sensibility, a book that has opened my eyes to the fact that I am about to be totally ‘schooled’ in a musical system that is very different than the western music I’ve studied most of my life (Beethoven on a Sogo anyone). I wonder how I, a classically trained bassoonist, am going to fair in this brave new world. 

My summer reading has been enlightening, but nothing beats experience.

Rehearsal Prep

One of the most important steps of preparation is visiting the travel nurse. Travel to Ghana requires many immunizations; in fact, to enter the country you must carry proof of Yellow Fever vaccination. Needless to say, I walked out of the clinic feeling a bit like a pincushion. In addition, Ghana has one of the highest prevalence of Malaria in the world, so I picked up a prescription for malaria prophylaxis. Of course, the best way to avoid malaria is to avoid being bitten. That’s where permethrin, DEET, and mosquito nets come in handy. Permethrin is a potent insecticide that you spray on clothes to kill mosquitos on contact. We coated my long shoes, long pants, and jacket so I should be set. 

Me in my "Don't even think about biting me mosquito!" outfit:)

Gotta Have the Right Stuff

        Perhaps my favorite part of preparation can be summarized in one word… SHOPPING! My husband and I enjoy hiking and camping and are proud members of REI. Given that we will be partaking in at least 4 hours of drum and dance classes everyday, Jeremy strongly suggested we stock up on quick-dry workout gear. Being away from modern conveniences, namely a washing machine, also necessitated a few other purchases, like an antimicrobial towel and camping soap. I left the store feeling like a tough MacGyver girl! With all my gear packed, meds covered, and travel documentation in order, I’m ready for the 11-hour flight tomorrow. Thanks for reading.

Cheers,

Laura

Prelude

Laura Ankrum and Mark Rabuck are leaving for Ghana to study African music, dance, song, and general all around African culture on Thursday, August 17, 2012. A great portion of our adventure is being generously subsidized by Derby Academy, A K-8 independent school in Hingham MA, where we teach music.

We are both participating in a masters level ethnomusicology course which we are taking through the auspices of the UMass Amherst International Programs Department. Our itinerary has us embedded in an Ewe community on the Southwest corner of Ghana for two weeks.  We will also be touring other parts of Ghana at various times, bringing the grand total of our time spent in Ghana to three weeks. Hopefully we will get back to the states just enough time for us to process our learning and prepare for the upcoming school year.

Connectivity may prove to be daunting at times, so we don't know how often we'll get to post.