Finale

(Aug 21)

Following our tour at Cape Cost Castle it was back to the Anomabo Beach Resort for lunch and then another long bus ride to Accra. At this point many of us were trying to come to terms with the reality that our time in Ghana was almost through. People were busy calculating how many cedis they had left to spend on food and souvenirs. As we traveled to Accra, we started reminiscing about our favorite portions of the trip and commiserating about how much we missed our teachers and the people in Kopeyia.

            It was interesting being once again at the Afia Hotel in Accra. When we arrived there at the beginning of the trip we all were strangers, yet now we had become in a sense a family, a group of people from many different walks of life united by this life-changing experience. Our journey had reached its end. Some of us had different flight arrangements so goodbyes were scattered and even frustratingly hasty at times. Many of us held onto the promises of keeping in touch after our return… already photos are flying up on facebook!

Ten hours on the plane gave us time to reflect and discuss how we could share this experience with the Derby community… hopefully give back to the Kopeyia community in the future. We hope this blog has given its readers a sense of the wealth and depth of our learning we have encountered on ThisWorldMusic’s Ghana study abroad program.

We must extend heartfelt thanks to all who made this one of the most memorable and fruitful of adventures in both of our lives. We would again like to thank Derby Academy for subsidizing the trip and making our participation possible. The experience certainly would not have been as fun and meaningful without the camaraderie of our colleagues with whom we studied and forged strong friendships. Thank you to our talented and patient instructors at the Dagbe Cultural Center. Last but not least, we would like thank Jeremy and Kristen for their superb leadership on this trip. For all of us, traveling to Ghana was a process of discovery. It meant coming together to learn, share, find inspiration and form new friendships through our love of art. Thank you, readers, for sharing in this experience with us.

Sincerely,

Laura and Mark

Coda

Coda

(Aug 16-17)

After sadly leaving Kopeyeia, we soon found ourselves on the Western edge of Ghana, viewing it once again as tourists. On Wednesday, we enjoyed touring the Kakum Rain Forest, where for the first time during our stay in Ghana, it actually rained.

The highlight of the tour was the Canopy Walk, a series of suspended rope bridges ranging from 30 to 120 feet above the forest floor, which fell further from our feet with each successive bridge.  My "healthy" fear of heights was put to the test, especially as I had just learned that the forest is home to scorpions and a number of species of snakes.  Walking along 4x6 planks just seemed like a more appropriate activity for the likes of Gabby Douglas. Backflips were out of the question.  Yet, with the support of the group, I soon discovered that I had a knack for executing the time tested "white knuckle" technique.  

Laura here! Following the canopy tour we had lunch at a restaurant/hotel/music venue where many of us paid two cedis to pet one of their friendly crocodiles... I was more interested in my coke and fried rice, but it was fun to see others be adventurous. 

Then it was back on the bus... I must say, we've done our fair share of bus riding in the later portion of our trip. Luckily our group gets along very well. Some of our favorite bus activities included: sharing iPods, telling stories, and "the milk song." This helped the time pass and we were back at the Anamabo Resort and ready for some beach time. None of us ventured a swim, but I certainly got my  more than toes wet. :-) This was such a treat and a time to unwind from our weeks of intense studies.

Yesterday we made our last sight-seeing tour at the Cape Cost Castle.  This fortress was established by the British and played a major role in the slave trade. It was surreal being there and I found it difficult to truly take in all the atrocities that took place at Cape Cost. If prisoners resisted or tried to fight they were labeled as "stubborn slaves" and put into a cell where they would slowly die of starvation or affixation... there were still gashes in the walls from the struggles of the prisoners as they lashed out on the cells walls in anguish. Each place told story of the darkness humanity is capable. Our guide eloquently emphasized the importance of learning from the past, of forgiveness and healing, and of each individual's responsibility to make a difference.

Recapitulation

(Aug 15)

Over the last two weeks our lives were intertwined with the lives of the local villagers in Kopeyia. Despite obvious differences, we came to know more intimately about the lives of our instructors and those who took care of our daily needs -- as well as lives of their children.

Our mutual love of the languages of both music and dance has given us the opportunity to better appreciate the richness of the lives of our hosts. We were the students, and they, the teachers. The people of Kopeyeia have so much to offer us, and it seems we have comparatively little to give in return, both musically and culturally. Their ability to live without many of the things we consider neccessary highlights the beautiful sense of joy that only close-knit family and strong community structure can provide.  We will soon return enriched and humbled by the experience, and we all talk about how jarring it will be to return to a culture often defined by its excesses and emphasis on individualism.

Just as Ewe music is not complete without its dance component, interdependence is a way of life in the Volta and other regions of Africa. Even the drums are named after different members of the family.  Many of us are bringing home a small piece of the community and life-style of Dagbe in the form of a drum -- either a sogo or a djembe. Surely the sounds we make on these instruments will resonate with more than just the music.

Mark with the lead instructor, Odartey Kwashi.

-Mark

Performance

(Aug 13)

While Laura was focusing on dance, I elected to take private drumming lessons.  Between people taking private or group lessons, or practicing for the upcoming concert, the place was constantly buzzing.  The group had Gahu down pat, but the dance component of the second piece, Agbekor, was still shaky.  The final program  consisted of dancing and singing both pieces separately.  While we danced the staff musicians accompanied us.  We performed in costume with accessories and even war paint.

Laura wowed us all by dancing in two of the three additional performance pieces, Tokoe and Bawa.  The concert concluded with a number of dances performance by our instructors.

Members of the community and even passers by stopped to enjoy the performance, which was followed by a party and a feast.  Previously, many members of the group had pitched in and purchased a goat that had been slaughtered that morning (we were all invited to watch the process if we wanted -- Laura and I passed).

(Aug 13)

Laura here! Our last days in Kopeyia were filled with a flurry of activity for me. I was in the zone: going to private lessons, practicing, enjoying friendships, taking in every ounce of Dagbe possible.  

As the end of our studies approached I felt the weight of good-bye press upon me. It was time to bid farewell to our teachers, who were now our friends, to the children, who clearly were attached to us, and to the place that started to feel like home. I also had to come to terms with the fact that I would no longer have the opportunity to immerse myself in an art form that I have come to love. 

With yesterday's performance and our good-byes this morning I've been plucked out of my zone. Walking through the end of anything great is a difficult path to navigate... confusing bittersweetness. The sweetness is in my gratitude for my time at the Dagbe Cultural Center; for all I've learn and for the friendships I made; while the bitterness is a natural part of good-bye. I'm trying to keep myself open to the rest of the trip... to not be stuck missing Dagbe. I'll try to remember the Ghanian idea of Sankofa... lovingly remembering the past while looking to the future in hope.

-Laura and Mark

Monkey Mountain!

(Aug 12)

Well, the sanctuary wasn't actually on a mountain, but it was surrounded by them. The roads to it cut through mountains adorned with lush tropical wilderness -- the landscape inspired those in our van to start singing the Jurassic Park theme song. By the time we arrived, the name "Monkey Mountain" had already been set in stone. Our trip leader, Jeremy, surprised us with this special excursion, and it wasn't just a hit, it was a home run!

The Tafi Atome Monkey Sanctuary is located about two and a half hours north of our Kopeyia home.  Half of its proceeds go directly to serving the local village community.  There are about 400 monkeys that live in this densely forested area.  They live in groups that occupy different territories, and I must say, the ones that live by the trails eat the best.  Almost as soon as we entered the forest, hungry monkeys scampered all around and in the trees above us.  Our guide instructed us how to hold a banana in a way that would entice the monkeys to jump on our arms.  Cute little monkeys!  Eating out of our hands?  What a photo op!

We were very fortunate with our interactions with the monkeys. Those who wanted to feed a monkey were able to, and many of us coaxed them onto our arms as well.

Everyone in our group was absolutely giddy and thrilled with the experience. Just another marvelous day monkeying around in Ghana! Thanks Jeremy!

-Mark

Discovering Dance

(Aug 11)

Laura here, via Mark's iPad app :-) My body is exhausted! I had to tape up a major blister on my big toe, and I've discovered muscles in my legs and back that I didn't even know existed.  But what a small price to pay; I've discovered a love of dance on this trip!

Before ThisWorldMusic's Ghana study abroad program, most of my dancing occurred in my music classroom in the form of song games, or in my living room playing Dance Central for Kinect.  (Now) I'm dancing up to four hours a day. My body has simply fallen in love with African dance...Our two hour morning dance class is just not enough. If I haven't taken an additional private lesson that afternoon, I crave the movement that night. Coming into this trip I thought I would enjoy drumming the most. Don't misunderstand... I enjoy the drumming, but it's the dancing that has sparked expression in me I didn't know was there.

Even though I'm new to dancing, on this trip that doesn't matter. We are dance on an even playing field and it is easy to find kindred spirits who will venture into this new medium with me. On Monday I will perform four dances: two with the large group class (with Mark) and two small ensemble pieces that I have been working on in private lessons. I'm so thankful for my teachers here at the Dagbe Cultural Center, George and Mensah. I'm also thankful for my dancing colleagues on this trip, without whom I would have never had the courage to so enthusiastically throw myself into something so new to me.

When I get home, I do not know what I will do with this new passion, but one thing I know for sure... I'll have to keep moving!

Cheers,

Laura

The Little Ones

(Aug 9)

Laura here! Apart from my studies at the Dagbe Cultural Center, my favorite thing about Kopeyia is the children. Several of the children now know my name, and beckon me with sweet voices and playful waves. From our arrival to the present, these little ones have been a constant source of smiles and joy. 

Earlier this week Mensah gathered some village children for a simulated classroom demonstration at the school. He showed a sample lesson in which they worked on the alphabet and did some classroom songs... it was adorable! They also taught us some of their favorite singing games. I can't wait to do "Holo Holo" with my kids at school.

Yesterday was a long day and as Mark said in his last post. We're now starting to really feel the intensity of the program. I even felt a little light-headed in dance class. Trying to preserve my energy, I decided to reschedule a private lesson, and when the group headed to the "Empty Cup" that evening I stayed back. I was practicing my dances by the front gate of the center... it's one of the few places slightly removed from the thunder of people practicing their drumming. 

While I was taking a water break, two children peeped through the gate and sheepishly approached me. I said hello and started learning their names. Then more children started shyly filtering into the center to join us.  After we finished introductions we all stood there looking at each other smiling awkwardly. Then I got an idea... I asked them if they wanted to dance "Tokoe" with me, and their faces lit up with an enthusiastic yes! We established where the stage was and I stood as the lead female dancer. One of the boys took charge of organizing the children behind me, and we were off singing the drum parts and doing the dance. I felt like the Pied Piper... it was a special moment. Midway through the dance, Valerie came with her computer. Once we had finished the children were naturally drawn to her mezmorizing Mac. They especially enjoyed seeing pictures of her daughter and a banana slug. My time with the kids that night was a perfect ending to a taxing day. 

Now for the weather/star report from Mark:

Even though it is still generally overcast, recently each night the clouds tease me by opening to reveal a different part of the sky.  Light pollution is very low and a good many stars can be found floating close to the horizon.  A few nights ago, Saturn, Mars, and Spica (a star in the constellation Virgo), converged to form a perfect equilateral triangle high in the sky.  We've also enjoyed the occasional streaking meteor, which I suspect are playing their part in the perennial dance of the Perseids.  A few members of our class, and even the staff have taken (or feigned) some interest in my obsession, and (perhaps out of pity) have even let me lead a few sky tours.

Thanks for reading,

Laura & Mark